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1.2.8 法国女裁缝
V1 by lynnfordream
a.第一段 说法国在15世纪什么改革前出现一种什么衣服还是缝纫方法,它打破了垄断并且为女性提供了更多的参与商业的机会。一个叫C的人就研究这个了。 然后说这个商业机会还base on political support。
第二段貌似就说C和另外一个人t他们的观点有相同有不同。说了什么C好像是在pre-revolution。然后又说了revolution带来了什么影响。其中有个什么free the market 但是好像限制了political的活动,所以对那个纺织行业有影响。
题目:
1.有问C和T这俩人的观点相同地方在哪;
2.还有问提到那个缝纫方法的目的是什么,我觉得是通过它来反应当时的economy的一个什么现象吧。
3.CC和CH的分歧:选的 否认CH认为法国革命有作用的说法
4.讲M是为什么? 选的 法国革命前女性服装行业产品的变化。
In particular, the late-seventeenth-century introduction of a new style of dress called the manteau or mantua, and its increasing popularity,offered female seamstresses a "wedge " to loosen the tailors' monopoly overthe production of more formal, elite, and expensive women's fashions. This new product and more generally the exploding market for clothing, in particular women's clothing, provided seamstresses with the income and market niche from which to expand their numbers and to organize politically within the previously male-dominated trade. Furthermore, they could generally rely on the French state, with its agenda of economic development, to aid in this expansion and organization.女裁缝的规模扩大,且得到了政府政治上的支持。
In contrast with much of the prevailing historiography, Crowston demonstrates that when it was in the interest of the French state, authorities were happy to work with and encourage women workers as autonomous producers and not merely as family appendages to guild patriarchs.Crowston thus reinforces Hesse's claim that market expansion brought new opportunities for some women, but she locates these expanding opportunities in the political economy of the late Ancient Regime, rather than in the Revolution's overthrow of it.(市场扩大给妇女们带来了新机会,但这种机会不是由于革命,而是政治原因)
In Crowston's history, the seamstresses of Ancien Regime France emerge as relatively powerful and autonomous figures whose work, civic, and gender identities drew upon many sources, but were institutionalized in important ways because of the existence and practices of their guild.The destruction of the guild system during the Revolution thus represents a critical moment in the history of women's work and gender relations—from the perspective of women working in the garment trades, the "freeing" of the market from political constraints brought a largely negative transformation. A closer look at each of these works helps to reveal the origins of the tensions between these two interpretations.
补充资料:
"Fabricating Women"examines the social institution of the seamstresses' guild in Francefrom thetime of Louis XIV to the Revolution.
In contrast with previous scholarship on women and gender in the early modern period, Clare Haru Crowston asserts that the rise of the absolute state, with its centralising and unifying tendencies,could actually increase women's economic,social, and legal opportunities and allow them to thrive in corporate organization such as the guild.Yet Crowston also reveals paradoxical consequences of the guild's success, such as how its growing membership and visibility ultimately fostered an essentialised femininity thatwas tied to fashion and appearances. Situating the seamstresses' guild as bothan economic and political institution, Crowston explores in particular its relationship with the all-male tailors' guild, which had dominated the clothing fabrication trade in France until women challenged this monopoly during the seventeenth century. (女裁缝这种上升的趋势可以增加女人的经济,社会,机会。17世纪前这一行业一直有男人垄断,至今才有女人挑战。)
Combining archival evidence with visual images, technical literature, philosophical treatises, and fashion journals, she also investigates the techniques the seamstresses used to make and sell clothing, how the garments reflected and shaped modern conceptions of femininity, and guild officials' interactions with royal and municipal authorities. Finally, by offering a revealing portrait of these women's private lives - explaining, for instance, how many seamstresses went beyond traditional female boundaries by choosing to remain single and establish their own households - Crowston challenges existing ideas about women's work and family in early modern Europe. Although clothing lay at the heart of French economic production, social distinction, and cultural identity, "Fabricating Women" is the first book to investigate this immense and archetypal female guild in depth. It will be welcomed by students and scholars of French and European history, women's and labour history,fashion and technology, and early modern political economy. |
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